Wednesday, February 28, 2007
So when peace corps - guinea came to the difficult decision that it will be suspending the program, I knew that I that I also would have a difficult decision. Let me take this time out to say that PC Guinea administration is awesome...they have worked really hard to make this transition into the next phase of our lives so much easier. Even before the evacuation, I knew our admin was awesome...but they really took the cake with all the accommodation's they've made for the volunteers. PC Mali has also done a wonderful job hosting us as well. It will always be appreciated. So it has been really hard to come to the decision to leave peace corps. I've terminated my service and will be heading out to Ethiopia. I figure its that time, and it will be very difficult to continue where I left off in Guinea if PC is able to return by June. Personally, I feel that I should take this opportunity to spend time in the country of my family... Peace Corps is supposed to open up August 2007 so we'll see if I can be involved with that. So with that ends the Peace Corps Guinea Chapter... so till next time.
This is what I listed in my description of service for peace corps; I was small enterprise development volunteer...
Small Enterprise Development Trainings:
· Researched, procured, and developed an applied business training program for a local youth association. The youth association received training on how to manage the cassava farm and turn it into a viable business venture. The youth association had over 50 members and the cassava farm was approximately ½ acre.
· Provided Microsoft office training for local computer center trainers. Aided 2 trainers in developing and executing a comprehensive training program for their existing students.
Small Enterprise Development Integrated Programs:
· Reviewed budgets and did feasibility studies with the CEO's and staff of MouNa cyber cafe and Fast-Net with the goal of partnering Conakry financial backers with village entrepreneurs in Faranah and Mamou.
· Presided over community election processes held under the umbrella of the local government. Organizations included Association for Promotion of Community Development-Guinea, County Animal Husbandry Committee, and the Youth Association for the Development of Faranah.
· Offered business-consulting services to 3 local entrepreneurs and 3 associations. The associations were Mano River Women’s Network, Association for Promotion of Community Development – Guinea, and the Youth Association for the Development of Faranah. The entrepreneurs were shop and snack owners. Consulting services included providing accounting and marketing techniques, implementing effective logistical practices, and advising on financial management.
· Introduced and implemented internet marketing for a local drum and dance troop called APERSAF (Association de Percussionist Sans Frontiere). Due to volunteer efforts, APERSAF is currently officially recognized and published by the by the Guinean national office of tourism.
· Designed a village banking system to be practiced by a targeted women’s society. All participating parties were identified and in agreement with terms and conditions of the project.
· Prepared a seminar of local successful female entrepeneurs for the benefit of other female entrepeneurs. The idea was to cross the literacy barrier by having the sucessful entrepeneurs share their experiences.
III. Secondary Projects:
In addition to his primary duties in Faranah, Mr. Yimam was involved in various other projects during his service. Working closely with fellow volunteers and community officials, Mr. Yimam organized and designed educational conferences, worked to enhance the treatment capacity of health care professionals as well as encouraging youth sports programs.
· Collaborated with the director of the local private school to implement an educational improvement and awareness seminar for the commune of Faranah. The program was to involve local community leaders and media to encourage students, their parents, and their teachers to take their commitment to education seriously.
· Provided English lessons for the professors of the local university. This beginning level course was for 12 weeks and had 5 participants.
· Designed a literacy program for the village of Sokourala. The program was intended to provide a women’s society of 25 members a 4-month training at their site.
· Reviewed and consulted 2 university student associations with their project proposals and action plans for 2006-2007. Consultation advice ranged from project management to procurement of funds.
· Designed an anti-excision campaign for the commune of Faranah. Local community political and religious leaders were invited to discuss how to end this practice. The campaign was designed to be sensitive to the cultural value of the practice while simultaneously eliminating it.
· Trained a local village counterpart at a four-day HIV/AIDS workshop emphasizing prevention and methods of disseminating information to his community. As a culmination of this workshop, Mr. Yimam and his counterpart conducted an information session for over 120 people in a well frequented night club. They covered topics such as options for contraception, a demonstration on proper usage, and important facts pertinent to the AIDS situation in Guinea. Finally Mr. Yimam's counterpart handed out over 300 free condoms, using money earned in Per Diem at the workshop, to participants.
· Researched and procured funding for a county-wide HIV/Aids training and testing project. This was the first project of its kind for Peace Corps; HIV/Aids testing has never been done at the village level with Peace Corps. The project was designed to have “Train the Trainer” program at the county capital of Faranah. Afterwards, the newly trained trainers were to go to their designated sites and provide 2 HIV/Aids trainings (this would be done at 7 villages). Afterwards, a team of doctors from the Faranah hospital would offer HIV/Aids testing at each of the 7 targeted sites.
I am really proud of the work I have done and the contacts that I made in this past year. I hope that the political situation in Guinea improves so that other projects like the ones I have helped create and design become a reality. Did I tell you that being evacuated sucks? If not... it sucks.
Monday, February 26, 2007
I never thought I would be interested in seeing the source of the Niger river... or any river for that matter. What does being a source of the niger mean anyway? (educational segment begins here) Well, the niger is unique because it actually has an underground source, it's due to this that the Faranah region has a ton of springs... all over the place. The water table is just much higher where we are; and the land is extremely fertile... ridiculous fertile. And all this is because the region benefits from being the source of the Niger river. Now that's the environmental reason to see the river... the other reason is the spirituality associated with it. The locals here believe that the people who view the source will be blessed... as long as we don't jump in... then you're cursed and will suffer for the rest of your life (educational segment ends here) So that kinda was my motivation for going out there… I’ve never been cursed by a river before J
Ok, so the voyage starts from a town called Banian, 65km southeast from my town Faranah. I left from home with a good buddy of mine, Sekou… loaded our bikes on the taxi and rolled out in the afternoon of December 7th. Got there in one piece and met up with the rest of the people from our party… the lovely Fai and the talented Michelle. Twas a joyous reunion cuz we realized that there were 2 other people as crazy as we were to try and bike 70 km to Kobikoro, another 25 km to Froconia, and hike the last 15 km to the source.
The next day we roll out happy and full of energy. After 20 minutes I started thinking to myself... what the hell did I get myself into!!! Banian to the road to Kobikoro is paved 9km and really hilly. The actual road to Kobikoro is not paved and its hot. The further you go down the worse the road gets. Fai fell off her bike. According to Sekou, she did 180 in the air – she flipped over her handle bars. Thankfully she wasn’t seriously hurt – but she was bruised pretty bad. The road was really bad and the hills started getting really steep. The last 7 km before Kobikoro were terrible… wasn’t really bikeable. And climbing hills with a bike and backpack sucks…. BAD. By the time we got to Kobikoro we were exhausted. But hold up… there’s more! Since we were going towards the Sierra Leone border, we needed permission from the equivalent of a mayor to cross through. Fai, being the resourceful woman that she is, acquired a stamped document from the Prefet of Faranah (imagine someone that is the head of the county government) stating that we are free to travel through the region. So Sekou and I go to the “mayor’s” house (not a big deal… there is no real separation between officials and the population… plus he lives in a steel roofed house like everyone else J). We walk up to the guy and were basically interrogated for 20 minutes before we got his approval to spend the night and travel through his town. And he thought I was lying when I told him I’m American!
We spend the night with Sekou’s old principal… his family is awesome and his daughter thinks I’m hot (or at least that’s what I’m going to believe)… so I’m liking our arrangements. They give us food and we are merry. The next morning we wake up sore and uncomfortable in all the wrong places. But we were determined and so we left at 7 am. We’re questioned again, but this time by the military, as we’re heading out of Kobikoro. We expect to be back that evening. Man… after 25 minutes, Fai lets us know that she is going to head back to Kobikoro. We look at Fai and are like… WHAT! But she’s right, we thought the road was going to be better (because we were told that) and we really didn’t know what was up with the rest of the trip. And she was bruised up pretty good.
Ok… we got to our destination, Froconia, at 1pm. We did 25 km in 6 hours!! That road was hard… we ended up pushing our bikes half the trip, went over mountains, streams, walked, hiked, biked…. That was a really hard trip… but we made it more difficult by not grabbing something to eat… STUPID. I was the least physically fit and I started feeling some serious fatigue. But all of that had to be ignored cuz we had to do the same thing with this mayor that we did with the other. But this time it was more dramatic… imagine 3 really dirty, tired looking people sitting on the front porch of the most powerful man in the region, surrounded by the whole entire village. But we were prepared! We had the letter from the prefet stating that we are permitted to cross into his territory. And also… we brought some kola nuts (traditionally given as a form of thanks and respect). Man… were we mistaken, in the end they let us go but Sekou and I had to talk to the mayor for a good 35 minutes to convince him that we are permitted to see the source of the Niger river. And if anyone has heard me speak French… hahaha… lets just say it was a funny sight. What makes it funnier is that it wouldn’t be the last time. We stored our bikes at the mayor’s house. Ok… so we’re off to hike the mountain to the village that would lead us to source. The fatigue is really hitting me and I am well aware that its me that’s holding the group up. We’re climbing through the mountains and I’m thanking god that we are doing this at the end of the rainy season because if it were the dry season I would be beef jerky by now. Oh… and the trail is dangerous as hell… we’re going over bridges made of twigs looking down at 20-40 feet drop into rivers/streams.
We get to the village and again, we quickly become surrounded… this kind of attention would have been normally flattering but I personally was soooooooooo tired. I was ready to collapse… and there was no food stands or whatever because there were maybe 30 inhabitants in the village… and they were all busy following us around… get me food!!! Arghhh. Its at this point that we need a guide. And thankfully… because Fai was responsible enough to do the research, we were prepared for the guide and the cost…. Or were we? It’s 3pm right now. And I’m worried that we might not have time to hike the last 6 km to see the source. But alas, the problem of the guide continues. We find the dude and we’re sitting in a half circle with what seems like 30 million other people… all looking at the guide… The guide is ranting and raving because we only offered him 60 000 Francs (Guinean) and some kola. He wanted something like 500 000 Francs… yeah right… he doesn’t know who we’re dealing with.
Public Service Announcement : I’m going to take this time out to say that Michelle and I are Peace Corps volunteers and Sekou is Sierra Leonean… so we’re broke on a daily basis. You may now return to your regular scheduled program.
After an hour of this old guide ranting and raving, walking up and down with his cane in anger… and the others around pleading on our behalf… he finally sends another guy to lead us to the source. Man… that was annoying. And I was thinking to myself that I’m too tired and hungry… let’s just head back. So we’re on our way to the source. I’m still tired, still hungry, and I’m still the slacker in the group. After passing by some cow camps and a couple huts and big hills and some more streams and some bridges and some 6 km we are at the source. Which is right on the border of Sierra Leon…. The part that’s not guarded by military dudes. The source is a hole in the ground y’all… it’s filled with water. The area is wooded and its pretty green. But it’s a hole in the ground filled with water. But its fresh enough to drink… so I did… and I drank a lot.. had some Orasel so I mixed it in and drank. We took some pictures, danced…well not really… but we did take some pictures. But we only stuck around for 20 minutes or so… it started getting dark (it’s about 6pm right now). We head back to the village and arrive by 8pm. Family of the guide was kind enough to make the staple meal of Guinea… rice and sauce. We got a room in the local hotel… which is somebody’s shed I think… there were sacks of rice or potatoes in our room. Three to a bed y’all… no longer starved but 3 really stinky, smelly, don’t touch me cuz I’m gonna get some disease from you people. But we slept like babies… really. The next day, we left at 6am knowing that we had to get to Kobikoro that day.
What a difference food makes! We got to Forconia by 7am. Picked up our bikes, had a meal and we were off. We got back to Kobikoro 12:30pm. We kicked @ss and took prisoners baby… The road was the same, but wow, we really pushed and we were all surprised that we made such good timing. But our friend Michelle was not satisfied. She decided to leave us and bike from Kobikoro another 60 km to her town of Kissidougou. Can we say crazy. But she did it! I found out 2 days later that she made it in one piece and the road was not nearly as bad (although still unpaved). So again, its left down to 3… Fai, Sekou, and I hung out in Kobikoro that night. The next morning we headed back to Banian. I think that chick still likes me J….
Friday, February 23, 2007
That's the visa. Next is the trip, which we started the day after Tobasky which meant that everyone was not workng. But it was all good, found a taxi out to a town 65k south east of me. Got there in one peice and the next day we started the 70K ride to Sierra Leone (the destinaion was a village called Kamono). Tired.... Tired... Tired. but it wasn't nearly bad as our trip to the source of the niger river. We left at 9am and got there by 3pm... not bad for mountain biking. When we got to our destination we started raking in the chickens.
Yes y'all... chickens (but if they're high rollers they'll get you a lamb or even a cow on those specail occasions). When people like you in Guinea or Sierra Leone, they give you a chicken. And you cook and eat it and say "damn that was finger licking good." We ate soooo well. Chicken is good. Actually, I will take this time out to say that fresh meat is good. Really good. While we were out there, we basically chilled, visited a couple neighboring villages, and ate more chicken. chicken. chicken. chicken... helped our host with the farm, the house chores, etc. It was super chill. Oh, and the language thing... is koronko... which is a sister dialect of Sankara... which belongs to the Malinke/Mandingo family. And the national language is English... which is cool... except no one spoke it... just koronko. Sierra Leone is going through their presidential elections this year so it is was the subject of every conversation. And it was cold... really cold. So cold, in fact that when we biked back to Guinea, we were in longsleeves. The landscape was beautiful... it was hilly and green.. and there wasn't the field burnings that you see in Guinea. I left January 2 and came back to my house January 6. Oh.. and the people are amazingly kind... I mean what else are you gonna say about a village that keeps giving you chickens. We actually brought a chicken back with us on the bike... tied that sucker to the handle bars and gave him a pat on the head before we took off.
What a way to start the new year!
Wednesday, February 07, 2007
The other disturbing part about the end of rainy season is the burning... the burning of fields to make room for their crops, domesticated animals, or whatever reason. In my particular region its done do an extreme level. The environmental consequences are devastating and everyone is breathing it in all the time. A day doesn't go bye when i'm not avoiding a field being burned... its a custom they've been doing for years, and its been frowned upon for a very long time. Hopefully something will get the villagers and the population to stop the burnings... it really is devastating.
But on a happy note... i saw breasts today :) and its not 99999900000 degrees yet
What made this trip especially exciting is the black mamba that decided to join us for christmas dinner. Imagine this...you're in a walled in private concession (shared w/several families) and you hear yelling and screaming coming from right outside the door. Us being brave men (uhhh... i'm talking about the volunteers of course) decide to check it out and see this 7 foot black mamba... being stoned by like 12 people. It was later that I discovered that they are one of the most poisonous snakes in the world... I would've been more scared if I didn't have to think about the bush taxi I was taking the next day.
So that was my xmas and it was fun... i hope everyone at home enjoyed their holidays as well :)
...is not the same without Methaquin.. our not-so anti-malaria medications that we (peace corps volunteers) are required to take (or an approved alternative). The first month I took this great drug, I had panick attacks that really freaked me out... like what am I doing here? What's my life about? Is that heat or is air attacking me? Why don't the hole-in-the-ground toilets flush? etc...
But now that I'm "habituated" to the medication, I can think these thoughts without going into a state of frenzy... which I am very thankful for by the way. Methaquin has this chemical called larium... it effects the brain in a funky way that causes emotional, hallucinagenic side-effects... and i promise you these are not mushrooms I'm consuming on a regular basis. They can make dreams feel more "real"... especially nightmares, so its because of this a lot of people get off them.
There are testimonies of people loosing much sleep due to this drug. Also the hallucinations can be trippy... and I don't think there has been any long term study based on the drug.
Fortunately, I haven't had such a terrible experience with the drug... actually... the incredible sex dreams have completely made up for the negative side effects I've had. So incredible. The only thing that bothers me... is that I had Malaria!!!!! It was a hot august day... and I woke up with aches and a fever and I thought I was battling another spell of... "it was a hot august day" ... when I really felt funky. I go to the local hospital and voila... i have Malaria. I was really pissed because I hadn't had a sex dream in a couple weeks so I was like ... this isn't fair!!!! So its not an anti-malaria drug... arrrghhhh. But what it does do is diminish the potency of Malaria (small print people... always read the small print) so that if you do get Malaria, it won't be that bad. And fortunately for me, it wasn't that bad at all... and the other medication to get rid of Malaria reall does work... I just realize I capitalize Malaria every time I write it... Malaria, Malaria, mmm...Malaria.
So that’s the seasonal perspective… then there’s the perpetual problems that always arise when you’re dealing with public transport in this country… like waiting… one must wait all the #*%^$ time!!! There are no scheduled times for departure… like, perhaps greyhound… oh no… the taxis leave when the seats are filled up and the drivers get their fare share of the loot from the taxi company (syndicate).
Then you get in the car and realize that there are 14 people in the 9 place (which would normally be a 6 or 7 seater) taxi. And then you’re specifically pissed that your sitting between the big woman and the smelly dude…. Actually had the habit about complaining out-loud about this in English until I found out that on this one particular ride, that the big woman was Liberian… kinda weird y’all.
Oh… and that’s 14 people in the car; there’s 10 others on top with ½ ton of luggage. Its quite a site to see actually. Every time you hit a curb, you think you’re either loosing a passenger or your luggage… and usually you hope it’s the passenger… tear (sign of sentiment).
Actually, one time we hit a bump so hard the taxi driver and his buddy started laughing their tail feathers off … it was because he forgot he left a passenger trapped in the back trunk… so so cruel.
Oh and I definitely need to include the constant break downs, flat tires, piss breaks, oops I hit the dog lets see if I damaged the car breaks.... the list goes on and on. But, if you're ever so lucky, you get to push the car to help start the engine. Almost 80% of the taxis that i've used had needed a "human push" start. And the driver always pops the clutch to start the car. Unbelievable.
So, the next time your looking at tourism in Guinea, definitely read the fine print on public transportation… otherwise you might wind up hanging from a window next to some strapped-up sheep… I’m not exaggerating.
Thursday, February 01, 2007
I've been offered 2 wives... and my host dad doesn't understand why I'm not taking a guinean wife at this point. He thinks I only like white girls... which to anyone who knows me is laughing their asses off. There's a lot of singing and dancing in my town.... which is really cool. At about 4pm on the dot, there is drumming to be heard from at least one direction. There's about a wedding a week (which is really crazy cuz the town's not that big) and the dancing is pretty awesome. Oh... and my sisters are pretty hot. Really. I wouldn't lie about this. Just thought I should say that.
I eat rice and sauce on a daily basis.. and if i'm especially lucky.. i eat this sh*t called toe... its mashed cassava with an oily sauce. I'm just not getting used to the food... i'm craving for real food!!! I either eat with the family or eat out... what is cool... is that you can just stop by at anybody's house and sit around and people will feed you. And they'll give you an extra serving of toe if you eat with your hands with vigor!
Feed me!! Feed me!!
Yo... Its hot. For real.... i wash my clothes at 8am and they're dry by 8:15... am folks. Ridiculous. Oh, and do you know how I wash my clothes. Ok... I have 3 buckets; one of which has powdered soap that will burn your hands if you have any cuts... and you will have cuts by the time you're done washing! Ok.. and then you have a washboard. You put the clothes in the bucket with the powdered soap and then you put the washboard in the same bucket... and rub the articles of clothing against the washboard... if you have a bar of soap ... you rub that against the clothing as well.... anyway... its a way more involved process than lets say.... putting it in a washing machine. So... after doing this one time at my new site... (I've been in Haute Guinea (Upper Guinea region) for about a month now), I give my clothes to one of my host sisters... and she does it for me :) Its good to be a man in this culture... ok... my host father has...1.. no 2... no 3... wait... 4... count'em 4 wives y'all. and he's got 30 plus kids... we tried counting and it just didn't work out. Oh, and first cousins are considered brothers/sisters here.... the concept of family is crazzzy. Everyone is related... anyway... my dad saw me doing my laundry and was like... "That's women's work... give it to your sister now" (I'm translating). So... I do. I don't cook either cuz that's "women's work" as well. So what do I do you ask.... well... i don't do any house work whatsoever... its kinda cool. I've been at site for a month now and I am making my presence known in the community... I offer business consulting and trainings for my town.... i'm not associated with any NGOs so I have to do my own marketing... but its a good way to know the community.
The rainy season is supposesd to start in another month... but until then its supposed to be wicked (can we still say wicked these days?) hot. My family is pretty cool... I still don't know everyone's names and my french still sucks. Communication is soooo hard... and the education level makes it even harder... there's no such thing as analytical thinking here!!! arrrghhh... But it's cool... people will one day understand me... or at least the words that come out of my mouth. Signing off...
you're boy is just outside of Bamako, Mali living NICE. There is regular electricity, television, good food, heat... a lot of !*#^%&** heat, and music. Really, I'm impressed with Bamako... compared to the capital of Guinea, it is just heaven... and actually compares to several smaller american towns. My perspective could be skewed because I haven't been to any other w.african cities/countries, and Guinea really is ... dirt poor. I feel like here I have an idea of what life is really like in most w.african countries. For example, while I'm writing this email I'm watching French MTV... yes y'all there's a french version... not as cool though :)
Despite all the development advances in my temporary host country of Mali, I actually do miss my life in Guinea and hoping that the political situation improves... The work that I've been doing is really starting to pop off... and it would be nice to see the projects through completion. Also, the relationships and contacts that I've left behind are truly amazing... and the way I left was definitely NOT ideal...
We (PC Volunteers) were told that we were leaving Guinea on a Tuesday (because of the strikes) and got picked up on Wednesday...and needed to be ready to stay out of the country from 1 week to ... not coming back!! so it was hard saying bye to people without true closure... and also with such short notice, we didn't get a chance to say bye to everyone.
In the meantime, we're trying to make our time productive... but also making sure that we're chilling out and really doing what we need to do to stay positive.
Alright... over and out from Mali